New Zealand Week 3

Day 15 (October 13)

                We awoke to rain, again, and ate a slow breakfast hoping it would dry off.  It actually did!  When we finally got moving – we headed to Lake Matheson for a 90 minute around the lake hike.  This lake, when the weather is good, is supposed to have the most spectacular view in all of NZ – Mt. Cook framed between two smaller foreground mountains and reflected in a valley lake.  Of course it was windy and cloudy so we saw…nothing.  Such is life. 

                The morning was salvaged by breakfast and coffee at the Lake Matheson café – looking out at the mountains. While we wrangled some unanticipated mortgage fiascos – the clouds started to lift and the sun came out.  Elliot got to run around in the grass, Crystal and Mac got to relax a little and while we didn’t actually see a mountain peak just yet – it felt like there was hope for a good day. 

                The rest of the day was sort of a wreck.  We took an early break in our drive to get a last connection to the internet in Haast, looking for a mortgage document that turns out not to be coming until tomorrow.  Unfortunately everyone work up and Elliot then had a rough rest of the day. 

                The drive from Haast up the mountain pass was BEAUTIFUL.  With the clouds finally lifting, we were able to see some mountain peaks and the southern alps struck us with their beauty.  We drove by a rushing blue glacial river up winding roads to the Blue Pools in Mt. Aspiring National Park.  A short walk to suspension bridges over the rushing river, the tranquility was thrown a bit off by biting flies and a very tired and hungry toddler.  We made it to camp, fed everyone steak, noodles and asparagus and got the kids to bed.  Crystal and Mac enjoyed a bottle of wine that we bought at the winery with the closed playground and tried to salvage what was otherwise a less than perfect day. 

Day 16 (October 14)

                We all slept in until about 8am, which was a nice change of pace.  The rain was coming down rather hard and the view we enjoyed the night before was obscured by clouds.  We packed up quick and headed out to the town of Makaroa, just a few km down the road.  We had some mortgage paperwork to fill out and needed internet access, but this ended up being a GREAT place to get it.  While the weather outside was windy, rainy and cold – inside there was a fire burning, warm cups of coffee and a formal English breakfast (tomatoes, sausage ham, eggs, hashbrowns, toast) and lots of internet.  Surprisingly peaceful and enjoyable (and we got our closing disclosure acknowledges – apparently a key part of buying a house). 

                We then packed up for the drive to the Isthmus peak track.  It is hard to overstate how amazing this trail was.  It is certainly in the top 5 day hikes we have taken in our lives and potentially the best hike of our lives.  Situated on a narrow isthmus of land between Lake Wanaka and Lake Hawea, Mt. Isthmus is ~1300m tall and has 360 view of both lakes and the surrounding mountains, including Mt. Aspiring.  With the added benefit of hiking past a high country sheep station (which Elliot loved).  While the trail was difficulty (10 miles round trip, ~3000 vertical feet) and pretty much steep the entire way, ti was definitely worth it.  Crystal was concerned several times for Mac’s health, as Elliot is getting near the upper limit of what is feasible to carry on longish hikes.  Between Elliot, Wes, water, food and extra clothes for everyone (definitely needed – it was windy up there), Mac probably had about 50 pounds while crystal had about 25.  Ultra-light day hikers we are not.  The photos can’t do justice to the view from the top – two massive alpine lakes surrounded by snow-capped peaks in all directions, wind whipping around you…amazing.  Wes was a trooper the entire time, sleeping most of the way and getting his diaper changed in probably the most extreme spot we have tried it to date.  We both noticed that the looks people gave us going up tended to be concerned (ie what the hell are you doing), while coming down we go impressed looks (ie I’m impressed you made it and the kids aren’t crying / are asleep). 

                After heading down and enjoying a cup of hot chocolate in Moana (the campervan got named a few days ago), we drove into Wanaka township and pulled into our holiday park.  We -made a dash for a brew-pub and down a few well-earned beers (not Elliot, she will tell you that she had to be 21 to drink beer), French fries, burgers and cheese bread (Elliot definitely ate those).  A great day was capped off by gelato and dancing to a remarkably loud electronical DJ on the side walk.  Showers for Crystal and Mac after everyone went to bed felt great after a long hike.  Probably the best day in NZ so far. 

Day 17 (October 15).

                We woke up a bit slow (and less sore than expected) this morning and after a breakfast of oatmeal, did some laundry, refilled the water in the van and let Elliot play at the holiday park playground.  We then headed into Wanaka to walk around and were quickly side tracked by a bakery where we had 2^nd breakfast of a venison pie and a delicious cream donut, followed shortly by 3^rd breakfast of a warm date scone with butter when Elliot declared she was still hungry and going back to Moana for more food. 

                We puttered around town in a planned relaxing morning.  We played at the playground, wlaked along the waterfront, explored some stores and then took some pictures at #thatwanakatree.  This is a willow tree growing right out of the lake in Wanaka.  It apparently started as a cattle fence post 70 years ago but was still alive and grew into one of the most unique, and most photographed, trees in the world.  We then gassed up and drove to Queenstown where we restocked with food in anticipation of our trip into Fjordlands National Park and Milford Sound.  We camped in the little town of Lumsford at a freedom camping with free internet from the library and a great playground (notice a theme?).  We were amazed at the amount of food Elliot ate for dinner (Mexican bowls) as it rivaled what Crystal ate. 

                Weston turned 4 months old today.  We will be writing a separate 4 month blog for him – but he is really hitting his stride.  He has recovered from a cold that plagued him early in the trip and is sleeping and eating better.  He actually seems to enjoy (or at least not hate) care rides and if we time it right even seems to sleep in them for 30-40 minute stretches.  This is a MASSIVE improvement from earlier when he just screamed the entire ride from Auckland to Cathedral cove and we were having serious misgivings about the whole plan.  He is also a smile factory and has a fantastic gummy smile that comes out when you look at him, hold his hands, tickle his tummy or really do just about anything.  He is working on sitting independently and can hold himself upright for a second or two before toppling over onto his belly.  He takes Elliot’s love in stride – which is a mixture of stories, songs, hugs, kisses, punches to the face, arms bars, pulled fingers and then kisses to the “owies” that she caused.  Aren’t big siblings wonderful? 

laundry day!  Where is Wes?

Day 18 (Oct 16)

                We woke up in Lumsden, after some eggs, played on the playground again.  It was then off on the road, heading to Te Anau, gateway to the Fjordlands national park.  A town that seems a lot like a tourist trap, Te Anau exists to service the hordes of tourist heading for Milford sound and the smaller number of trekkers heading for the Milford, Keppler and Roteburn tracks.  We stopped as we arrive at the bird sanctuary, which had several interesting things to look at.  The critically endangered Takahe, a ground nesting bird badly threatened by introduced rats, as well as the active (and noisy) alpine parrot, the Kea, as well as a whole bunch of ducks, parakeets and even an owl.  Elliot was quite happy.  We then stopped in town for diesel and a snack a meat pie shop that was, surprisingly, very good.  We ate our three pies venison (Mac and Elliot), steak (Crystal and Elliot) and chicken/bacon (Mac, Crystal and Elliot) along the lake side of Te Anau, watching boats come in and out.  While the Milford track starts from Te Anau, the boats actually leave a little up the lake.  This is a hike that is worth coming back to NZ to do, 4 days one way from Te Anau to Milford sound.  Supposed to be one of, if not the, best hikes in the world. 

                We started the drive from Te Anau to Milford sound with sleeping kids.  It is a good thing, because this was a SPECTACULAR drive.  You drive up a glacial valley, carved 17,000 years ago during the last ice age.  You are surrounded on three sides (you are driving into a huge cirque) by snowcapped mountains that rise at almost a right angle from the valley floor.  They are so steep and so huge that you can’t see the top from the car and actually need to stop, get out and crane your neck to seek the top.  The weather was amazing (warm and dry but with clouds in ad out of the mountain). 

                We had a quick lunch and then hiked Key Summitt.  Our legs were still a bit beat from Isthmus peak, but this was the perfect hike.  About 2 hours to above treeline and a 360 degree view of the mountains.  The best part of this hike is that the helicopter supplying the huts on the Roteburn hike was lifting supplies from the parking lot of the hike, and we were treated to the helicopter flying over, picking up sacks of food / supplies and then flying away.  It got even better as we climbed the mountain and soon found the helicopters flying in the valley to be below us!  There was a little interpretive nature walk at the top, where Elliot learned that grass at the top of the mountain is quite fragile and you can’t run on it.  Great views all around of raw glacially carved features – cirques with tarn, hanging valleys with huge waterfalls and jagged peaks that were clearly above the level of the ice. 

                We camped at Cascade Creek, which is the furthest DOC site up the highway. While there was a spectacular view down the valley with snowcapped mountains all around, the sand flied were swarming and so we had dinner inside.  

Day 19 (October 17)

                The day dawned cloudy and rainy.  We drove away from camp with the sense that we were surrounded by massive mountains, but unable to really see them.  The copious road signs informing us of avalanche hazards only served to increase this sense.  We soon arrived at the Hollyford tunnel – a 1200 meter tunnel through the mountain that forms the end of the glacial cirque at the head of the valley. Carved directly through the mountain – it is hard not to think of the Lord of the Rings and the mines of Moria when you go in.  A phenomenal engineering achievement (not the least b/c it crosses at least 2 fault lines), you come out into the head of the glacial valley that becomes Milford sound. Since it is only wide enough for 1 car, it is a one way tunnel (there is a lot of that kind of stuff in NZ).  So you have to wait at a long traffic light while cars come the other way. This gave us a chance to hop out and look at the mountains and the Keas to swoop in and begin to beg for food (you aren’t supposed to feed them). We drove most of the way in the rain and the fog, as we had a 9:55 boat to catch.  The tour buses from Te Anau don’t arrive until about 11am and so we wanted to get out there early, and avoid the crowds. 

                While called a sound (discovered by Europeans before they appreciated the power and history of glaciers), Milford sound is actually not a flooded river valley but a glacially carved valley that the ocean flooded following glacial retreat – therefore a Fjord.  Because of the tremendous amount of rain the area gets (up to 15 meters annually with days of 10cm of rain not uncommon) and the tannins that get leached from the plants, there is a unique structure to the water.  A layer of dark freshwater overlays cold seawater with steep rock sides.  This blocks out light and essentially recreates a deep ocean environment and, as such, there are deep ocean species very close into land.  We took a cruise with Mitre peak cruises and there were probably only 15 people on our boat.  We got a great seat under cover where we could see but still shelter the kids.  While we couldn’t see much of the mountains on our way out, the rain caused there to be hundreds of small /medium sized waterfalls and dozens of big waterfalls to come streaming down the sheer rock cliffs.  Each hanging valley along the sound had its own waterfall and at the biggest one, the captain of the ship was actually able to poke the bow of the ship into the waterfall (tells you how deep the water is right next to the walls of the sound).  The same nearly vertical cliffs we saw driving in were recreated here but, since the ocean flooded the valley, the effect was a vertical rock face rising out of the ocean to mountain peaks thousands of meters in the air.  It was phenomenal. 

                We saw a pod of 20-30 bottle nose dolphin swimming no more than 10 feet from the rock cliffs, two little penguins sunning themselves and an abundance of southern fur seals – some hauled out sunning themselves and some hunting and jumping out of the water.  While the dolphins were graceful, the seals jumping out of the water looked suspiciously like dogs playing.  “swim, swim, swim, swim…HEELLLLOOOOO…swim…swim…swim..swim…HELLOOOOOO etc.”

                As we pulled back in the dock complex that made up most of the town of Milford, the buses had arrived – there were easily 20 full sized tour buses that had arrived, full of people. It was a madhouse.  The clouds had lifted, however, and the peaks surrounding the sound (fjord) were coming out. Mitre peak is the most famous and it really was phenomenal.  A dark ocean sound, near vertical cliffs rising straight out of the ocean to a thousand meter, snow-capped peak, with clouds drifting in and out – words cannot do it justice.  Pictures are ok, but it is just amazing to see.   We grabbed a carrot cake and a flat white (coffee) and checked in with our real estate agent (closing is in a few days) and then drove back to the Chasm – a roaring waterfall about 20 minutes off the road.  Mac made the critical error of handing Elliot a map and telling her she was in charge of navigation.  Since she happens to love Dora the explorer, she took this VERY seriously.  She took 2 steps and then pulled out the map, pointing out where she was, where she was going (WATERFALL!) and how to get there (BRIDGE…TRAIL).  Once she felt comfortable with the plan – she was off….for 2 steps, where she had to stop, repeat the process and declare “GOING TO THE WATERFALL” to any and all who walked by.  It took quite a while to get there.

                We drove back out the way we came and were able to, again, be amazed by the alpine scenery.  When we come back to NZ and if anyone else decides to make this trip – this is a must do.  It is just amazing and unlike anything else you have ever seen in your life.  It is a little bit like the Canadian Rockies, a little bit like the North Cascades, a little bit like the Alps, a little bit like the quieter parts of Maui and yet so much more than any of them.  Just amazing.  We made camp along the shores of lake Te Anau just outside the town of Te Anau and were able to cook dinner with the sun went down over the lake.  It was warm, dry, not windy and not too buggy.  Perhaps the best dinner / campsite combo yet in NZ to cap off one of the most spectacular days. 

Day 20 (October 18)

                The dawn over lake Te Anau was peaceful, until Mac jumped in the freezing water and did his best to remain calm.  After a leisure breakfast of oatmeal and craisins, we packed up and started the drive to Queenstown.  This was interrupted by some house stuff (closing is tomorrow) that took an hour along the side of the road to sort out. 

                We pulled into the holiday park in Queenstown a little after lunch time and powered through showers and baths for everyone.  It felt nice to get clean prior to walking around town.  We then headed downtown and stopped at the famous Fergburger for lunch.  This was supposed to have the best burgers in the world (so says the LA Times) and while they were good, big and greasy – we think there are better ones in PDX.  We sampled a scone from Fergbaker and gelato from Mrs. Ferg next door.  We then puttered over to the gondola – which whisks you to the top of a peak looking over Queenstown.  We had tickets for the 6pm Haka show and, with an hour to kill, decided to go luging.  This is essentially a wheeled bobsled run.  You take a chair lift to the top of the run and then sit your butt in a low slung plastic cart with a handle for steering and braking.  The rules were, if you can walk – you can Luge.  So Elliot started off with Crystal and then took a run with Mac.  She LOVED it and asked to go faster the entire time.  We headed over for our Haka show, only to discover that we were the only ones who booked tickets and they didn’t want to do a show for 4 people – so we got bumped to the 7:15 show.  They were nice enough to get us a few more rides on the Luge for free – so Elliot went once more with each of us on the slow track and then Crystal and Mac went once each on the fast track.  The fast track was FAST and we were definitely up on two wheels a few times. 

                The Haka show was great – since the crowd was small – Mac got to the be chief and accept the ceremonial challenge from the warriors that started the show.  Crystal and Elliot got to go up and swing around the dancing balls.  Elliot and Wes loved the show, it was on par with the one in Rotorua, but perhaps a little less kitchy.  We then took the gondola back to town, grabbed a pizza and a beer and got the kids to bed.  A surprisingly good and fun day out of what we expected to be a logistics day.