TMB
Day 1 / Day 2: Portland to Chamonix
Our adventure began with the drive from Portland to SeaTac, where we left the car and found the trip through security smooth—a promising start to what we hoped would be a seamless journey to Europe. The flight to Heathrow went off without a hitch, and we managed to catch some sleep, which made the time in the air pass quickly. Our connection to Geneva went smoothly, though we both felt slightly disoriented as we adjusted to the new time zone. After navigating through the Geneva airport, we made a beeline for coffee to get our bearings before meeting up with a shared van service that would whisk us to our first hotel, the Hôtel Heliopic in Chamonix.
Arriving in Chamonix felt like stepping into another world. Hôtel Heliopic was an instant delight—the lobby buzzed with energy and thoughtful details, from the kids’ play area with video games to a candy station and the standout feature: reusable cups with fresh water and sparkling water on tap and an all you can drink automatic espresso machine (WIN!!!). Though we were too early to check into our room, we left our bags with the front desk and headed out to explore the town. Chamonix itself was bustling, with an array of charming stores that kept us intrigued.
I set out on our Tour du Mont Blanc journey with energy but perhaps a bit too much optimism regarding a packing strategy (despite Crystal warning me). I hadn’t brought any hiking pants and quickly realized the temperatures up in the Alps wouldn’t be forgiving. My first order of business in Chamonix was to find a pair of pants. Easier said than done. Store after store, I tried on slim-fitting French brands, all of which seemed to be designed with a different body type in mind. My "American legs," as I like to think of them, did not fit the local cuts. It became almost comical—until I finally found a pair that fit. Later, when I recounted the tale to Elliot, she laughed and reassured me, saying I wasn’t "fat," just "muscular."
Once our room was ready, we finally unpacked, took a much-needed shower, and headed to the hotel spa. After finally settling into our room at Hotel Heliopic, we were ready to indulge in some much-needed relaxation. The hotel spa was beyond our expectations—a Roman-inspired haven with hot and cold rooms, a bubbling hot tub, and a cold plunge that jolted every muscle awake. It felt restorative, exactly what we needed after our flights and hectic day of travel. The tea they offered, aromatic and perfectly steeped, added an unexpectedly delicious touch to the experience. We stayed in that soothing space for as long as possible, savoring the warmth and calm that signaled our trip had truly begun. We actually were able to connect with a group finishing their trek and they left hiking poles at the front desk of Heliopic for us to pick up and use!
For dinner, we opted for Indian food, adding a bit of spice to our first night and figuring we were about to eat some heavy moutnain food. Finally, we returned to the hotel, where jet lag caught up to us, and we collapsed into bed, exhausted but ready for the journey that lay ahead.
Day 3: Les Houches to Refuge Miage
We caught the bus to Les Houches, the charming alpine village that serves as the traditional starting point of the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB), right outside our hotel. Nestled in the Chamonix Valley, Les Houches has an undeniable Swiss-French charm, surrounded by forested slopes and offering striking views of Mont Blanc in the distance. The village’s trailhead is bustling with hikers beginning their journey, which made us feel both excited and a bit like “official” trekkers ourselves. However, our day started with a little misadventure—when we pulled out what we thought was the bus pass, it turned out to be a commuter train pass instead. The driver immediately yelled at us in rapid French. Embarrassed, we paid in Euros and tried to laugh it off, though we definitely felt like obvious tourists.
After arriving, we found the TMB trailhead and took the obligatory photos under the starting sign. We set off up the steep trail from Les Houches, starting with a brisk ascent through quiet, picturesque neighborhoods, passing traditional wooden chalets with flower boxes and wandering goats. The trail then climbed further, winding through grassy pastures and ski slopes, setting a challenging pace that served as a reality check for the days ahead.
After an hour or so, we reached the Bellevue cable car station, where many hikers catch a lift up from Les Houches to skip the grueling climb. While the thought was tempting, we opted to keep hiking and do it all ourselves. This stretch of the TMB wasn’t the most scenic—following roads and some ski infrastructure—but there was something satisfying about earning the elevation.
Continuing onward, the trail led us to a suspension bridge shrouded in low-hanging clouds, stretching across a roaring mountain river. The bridge swayed slightly with each step, and the mist lent an otherworldly feel to the crossing. It was a thrilling, almost cinematic moment—feeling suspended in the clouds with the sound of rushing water below and the sight of the bridge stretching into the fog ahead. We paused midway to take in the scene, fully immersed in the adventure.
The trail then meandered through the lush alpine forest, and the steep climb finally gave way to rolling green hills dotted with classic Swiss cows, their bells echoing melodically through the valley. After passing through the woods, we began our descent toward Refuge de Miage, a stunningly picturesque refuge tucked into a valley. Surrounded by towering peaks, including the impressive Dome de Miage and the Miage Glacier, the refuge felt like a cozy, hidden gem.
Just as we arrived, the clouds lifted, and the sun broke through, bathing the valley in warm light. We took advantage of the weather, ordering drinks on the lawn, sharing a slice of blueberry pie, and even napping briefly in the sunshine. We met some friendly French day hikers and a few dogs, rounding out the tranquil afternoon.
With rain forecast for the next day, we decided to adjust our plan and shifted our reservation to Les Mottets, hoping to cross the next pass under better conditions. That evening at Refuge de Miage, we enjoyed a simple but satisfying dinner of salad and a massive omelet, tucked into a small, rustic chalet (Chalet Bijonette) with a separate shower building—a perfectly quaint touch. We went to bed that night feeling content and relaxed, surrounded by the peaceful quiet of the mountains after an exhilarating, steep, and eventful day.
Day 4: Miage to Mottets
We packed up early at Miage, fueled by a breakfast of coffee, granola, bread, and cheese, ready for one of the longest hiking days of the trip. The first stretch greeted us with a steep climb out of Miage, a sharp awakening that set our pace. This intense beginning gave way to a descent toward Les Contamines, a small, picturesque mountain village nestled along the Bon Nant river and surrounded by lush forests. Despite being a bit of a ski town, the village was quiet in the off-season, with most shops closed. We took in the charm of Les Contamines, walking through quiet streets lined with traditional wooden chalets decorated with colorful flower boxes, before moving on.
The next part of the trail wound through peaceful green pastures dotted with grazing cows and sheep, their bells clinking gently as we passed. From there, we followed a beautiful path along a babbling brook, the sound of the water and the surrounding greenery creating an almost meditative atmosphere. Just outside Les Contamines, we came across Notre Dame de la Gorge, a beautiful, ancient church with roots going back to the 13th century. Perched in a dramatic gorge, this historic church was a welcome surprise, with its baroque interior and distinctive architecture standing out against the rugged landscape. Nearby, we crossed over the Roman bridge, a relic from the early days of the Alps, first built in the Roman era and updated in the Middle Ages—its stones worn smooth from centuries of travelers.
Then came the real climb: we pushed upward relentlessly, first along rocky paths through increasingly sparse alpine meadows, heading toward Col de Bonhomme. The landscape turned wild and rugged, marked by jagged rock faces and wind-scoured ridges. The air grew cooler and thinner as we climbed. We decided to tackle the Col des Fours variant, a steeper, higher route known for its stark beauty. This pass was more remote and a challenging test of our stamina, but the striking views made it worth the effort. Stark and otherworldly, Col des Fours felt like the top of the world, a sweeping panorama of rocky peaks and alpine vistas.
With cold rain beginning to fall and gusty winds whipping around us, we were the only hikers at the summit. The experience was raw and exhilarating, adding a thrilling edge to the journey. We broke out our “don’t die” hiking song to lighten the mood, the melody echoing in the stillness as we completed the climb.
As we descended through a light drizzle, we passed herds of cows grazing peacefully, their bells creating a soft, almost hypnotic background sound in the mist. Eventually, we reached a small cheese farm, where the sight of fresh mountain cheese was impossible to resist. Caught up in the scenery—and perhaps hindered by our limited French and German—we somehow ended up with a full kilo of cheese.
While exploring the farm, we encountered several Maremma Sheepdogs, massive, snow-white guardian dogs originally from Italy, known for their fierce loyalty and independence. These dogs are highly skilled at protecting livestock, often working without direct supervision to guard against predators in the mountains. They were imposing yet dignified, clearly taking their roles seriously as they watched us closely, herding us away from their flock with unyielding focus.
Onward, we finally arrived at Refuge Mottets, tired but feeling accomplished. The refuge, once a traditional dairy farm, was now a cozy sanctuary set against a backdrop of rugged, misty peaks. The rain had set in for the evening, making the interior feel even more welcoming as we settled in for beers and hot tea. We lucked out with a private room—a huge plus after covering 18 miles in shifting weather conditions. Dinner was hearty and warm: rice, sausage, and potatoes shared over lively conversation with a friendly couple from California and two British hikers. To cap off the evening, the refuge featured an old music box that played a nostalgic tune, a charming touch that rounded out the day. Grateful for the shelter and good company, we called it a night, content and ready for a solid rest.
Day 5: Mottets to Courmayeur
We started early with a hearty breakfast of granola, oats, and milk, gearing up for a big day of climbing. The trail led us straight up to the Col de la Seigne and the Italian border, a steep, rocky ascent in biting wind and dense clouds. We bundled up in all our layers—this time, I was especially grateful I had pants, as it was icy cold. Reaching the narrow pass at the top was surreal, with a line of fellow hikers stretching up behind us, all pushing through the mist to this stunning border crossing.
The descent from the pass was punishing, rocky, and steep, but it led to Refugio Elisabetta, where we were rewarded with an incredible view. We stopped for warm drinks and admired the landscape, surrounded by other hikers soaking in the view before we all continued down. After winding through a valley, the trail climbed up an escarpment overlooking a huge glacial valley, leading to the next landmark, Refuge Maison Vieille. The views were spectacular, but unfortunately, we kept crossing paths with a loud group of Americans, which reminded us just how serene the rest of the day had been.
As we hiked, we passed herds of sheep, their shepherds living in small mountain cabins. Marmots also dotted the hillside, with noticeably rounder ones on the French side and slimmer, quicker marmots in Italy. The guard dogs were out in force again, watching over the sheep with an intensity that kept everyone on alert. We had a sobering moment when we passed a sick cow lying among the herd on a ski hill, a stark reminder of the challenges of alpine farming.
We made a quick espresso stop at a ski lodge, taking a breather at the top before the final stretch. The descent into Courmayeur was steep, winding through ski slopes, and to our surprise, we encountered runners competing in the Tor des Géants—a grueling 330-mile ultramarathon. The runners’ stamina was impressive, and it added an extra layer of excitement to our arrival in Courmayeur.
Once in town, we checked into Hotel Bouton d'Or, a charming Italian hotel with warm, friendly service. After a well-deserved shower, we wandered through Courmayeur’s pedestrian streets, eventually settling at a cozy wine bar for pizza and wine. We couldn’t resist trying the local pastries—especially the pistachio ones filled with rich, creamy pistachio filling. It was the perfect ending to a long, challenging, and incredibly scenic 15-mile day in the Alps.
Day 6: Courmayeur to Refuge Bonate
After a series of intense hiking days, we had a “rest” day in Courmayeur—a break that was a bit unplanned, but very welcome after accelerating our pace early on. We took advantage of it, enjoying a relaxed morning with a lazy breakfast, a long shower, and some much-needed downtime. Though a little sore, it felt good to just take things slow.
By late morning, we caught a bus to the Skyway Monte Bianco cable car and rode it up to Punta Helbronner, perched high at over 11,000 feet. The ride was thrilling as the cable car climbed through thick clouds, and once at the top, the wind and cold made it clear just how high we were. Unfortunately, the dense fog blocked much of the view, so we made our way down the tunnel to Refugio Torino, a lodge sitting dramatically on the cliffside. There, we warmed up with coffee and snacks, marveling at the unique, isolated feel of this high-altitude spot.
After the chilly excursion, we rode back down to Courmayeur, walked the 30 minutes back to town, and set out to embrace Italy’s culinary delights. We found a spot for pasta, then indulged in pistachio croissants that were so good we couldn't resist a second round. Rested and fueled, we set out for a short afternoon hike, about two hours uphill, to reach Refuge Bonatti. The trails were alive with activity as competitors in the Tor des Géants ultramarathon passed by, making the climb even more exciting as we watched these incredibly fit runners push through their grueling final stretch.
Once at Bonatti, we enjoyed drinks on the terrace, soaking in views of the valley below. Dinner was a hearty spread of polenta, beef, beans, and soups—a perfect Alpine feast. We shared the meal with a lively group from the Czech Republic, chatting and passing bottles of wine around the table. After a day that was both restful and full of experiences, we retreated to our private room, ready for another night’s sleep in the mountains.
Day 7: Refuge Bertone to Refuge Bonatti
We woke up to a stunningly clear morning at Bonatti, the cold mountain air feeling especially sharp but making for spectacular views of Mont Blanc and the surrounding peaks. Breakfast was simple but included bowls of coffee (yes, actual bowls!), which was pure bliss for me. Outside, the wind was biting, easily dropping temperatures below freezing, so we layered up as we headed out to start the day. The clear skies let us take in the massif in all its glory for the first time on this trip—a sight worth every shiver.
As the day went on, the wind grew even stronger. At the trail junction, we opted for the high route, lured by the promise of panoramic views from the ridge. The choice rewarded us with breathtaking scenery, but the gusts were intense, whipping across the ridge at 35-45 mph with gusts up to 60 mph. At one point, I was actually blown over! The sight of cows huddling against the rocks to escape the gale was both amusing and a bit foreboding.
Reaching the top, we spotted a TORX runner, battered by the wind, shouting, “NO, DON’T GO!” in Italian as he descended. That was enough for us; the high route was sketchy at best, so we decided to turn back. This meant retracing our steps almost to Bonatti before taking a lower, safer route toward Refuge Bertone—a long detour, but clearly the smarter choice. I picked up a blister along the way, but with the adrenaline and layers coming off as we descended, it wasn’t too bad.
We stopped midway for a quick lunch of cheese and bread, then resumed our hike along the lower trail. It was warmer here, and we had plenty of company, with more TORX runners streaming past us. By mid-afternoon, we reached Bertone, a charming spot with an even better view of Mont Blanc and Courmayeur below. Since we’d arrived early, we relaxed on the sunlit porch, enjoying beers and snacks and FaceTiming with our kids.
Dinner that night was fantastic—fresh salad, pasta, tender veal, and more wine. We shared a table with a couple from Maine, a nurse from Seattle, and, surprisingly, a PA student from Portland who recognized me. The night was far from quiet, though; in our shared room, we bunked with another couple, and the husband mumbled in his sleep while his wife tried to shush him—in Latvian! Then, just as we were settling in, a helicopter landed outside, evacuating a staff member. Between the chopper noise and the day’s windstorms, it was an unforgettable night in the mountains.
Day 8: Refuge Bonatti to Champex-Lac
The morning started early, packing up quietly in our shared room with a Latvian couple, and then grabbing our bags to change in the shower room. We knew this would be a huge day with a big push across the border into Switzerland. Breakfast was standard but solid, and we took in the incredible sunrise over Mont Blanc as we sipped our coffee—clear skies and bright sun promising a good day ahead.
From Bonatti, we had a steady climb up to the Col du Grand Ferret, the gateway between Italy and Switzerland. This pass is one of the highest points on the TMB at 8,323 feet, with sweeping views of the Italian Val Ferret and the Swiss Val Ferret below. We stopped at Rifugio Elena along the way for a quick coffee and cannoli, though it was a bit chaotic, as hikers kept bursting in to escape the brutal winds outside.
At the top of Col du Grand Ferret, we had the classic border photo op—Switzerland at last! The views were expansive, with green valleys stretching below and glacial peaks rising around us. The weather was stunningly clear, making the descent feel even more exhilarating.
From the col, we began a long, easy descent into the Swiss side of the Val Ferret. The trail was smooth and grassy, and we walked past alpine meadows with grazing cows, hearing their bells echoing across the valley. We stopped briefly at a family-run refuge where children were playing and cows were being milked, a perfect spot to reapply sunscreen and snack. Mac got distracted by the scenery and ended up stepping in a hole near a cow farm, tweaking his knee, but after a few steps, it loosened up, and we continued on.
Reaching La Fouly, our first real Swiss town, was a welcome break. This small mountain village sits at around 5,250 feet and is famous for its traditional wooden chalets, surrounding pine forests, and views of snowy peaks. We stopped at a grocery store for a lunch break and stocked up on supplies for the long miles still ahead. Eating outside the store felt luxurious—the freshness of Swiss bread, cheese, and fruit was a highlight!
Leaving La Fouly, we followed a gentle valley trail through several picturesque Swiss hamlets like Praz-de-Fort and Issert, each filled with charming wooden houses adorned with flowers. It felt like hiking through postcards. The path gradually climbed through the valley, surrounded by deep green forests and rolling meadows.
The final ascent to Champex-Lac was steep and challenging, but reaching this scenic lakeside town was the perfect reward. Champex-Lac, nestled beside a beautiful glacial lake at 4,809 feet, is known for its tranquility, offering peaceful views and a lovely lakeside promenade. The town feels quintessentially Swiss, with a mix of mountain chalets, cozy inns, and inviting shops.
After a quick grocery stop for lunch supplies for the days ahead, we found a small bakery with apartments above. To our delight, they had showers and a laundry room! Clean clothes felt like luxury. Dinner that night was at a cozy local spot where we had a delicious omelet with crispy rösti and ended with a memorable crème brûlée. We attempted to pronounce it with our best French accents, but our efforts were so off that the waitress couldn’t understand us! After a long, rewarding 22-mile day, we were exhausted and passed out quickly, content to rest after our entry into Switzerland.
Day 9: Champex-Lac to Col de Balme
We got up and packed in Champex-Lac, kicking off the day with a fantastic breakfast at the village bakery—a perfect send-off before what we knew would be a challenging trek. Fueled by pastries and coffee, we set out on the Fenêtre d’Arpette variant, a tough but spectacular route, reputed as one of the most demanding on the TMB. The hike began with a steep ascent that only got more intense as we climbed, eventually totaling nearly 6,000 feet of vertical gain. The early trail wound up through forested paths, but soon gave way to steep slopes and exposed rock, the route narrowing as we approached the Fenêtre. As we climbed, the landscape shifted to a boulder field, where we carefully navigated loose rocks and scrambles, moving up through sections of scree—slow, technical work, but the views were a more than fair tradeoff.
At the top of the Fenêtre d’Arpette, we were rewarded with sweeping, jaw-dropping vistas of the Trient Glacier, massive and awe-inspiring in its reach. The view from up here felt like a glimpse into a different era—a reminder of the glacier’s once-expansive reach and a stark example of its retreat in recent years. We paused to take in the full scope of the glacier, the size, and the visible effects of the years—impressive and sobering in equal measure.
The descent was long and punishing, steep switchbacks winding down on rough, uneven ground that gave our legs a real workout. We took a break halfway down to eat, digging into truffle cheese and fancy bread, a well-earned snack with an unbeatable view of the glacier in the background. When we finally reached the bottom, we stopped at a small snack bar near the trail to regroup before the next push. At the bottom of the long, grueling descent from the Fenêtre d'Arpette, we finally reached a small, unassuming snack bar tucked along the trail. It was a welcome sight after the challenging morning, and the place had a lively, relaxed atmosphere—a gathering spot for families, day hikers, and trekkers like us. The trail here was far more accessible, so there were kids running around, dogs napping in the sun, and hikers spread out at picnic tables enjoying the day.
From there, it was another three hours of ascent toward Refuge Col de Balme, located right on the French-Swiss border. The last stretch was no joke, especially the rock face climb near the end—steep and unrelenting but with views of Mont Blanc as our backdrop. Along the way, we spotted marmots, popping up between the rocks and eyeing us with curiosity. The climb up to the next border crossing and refuge was wild and we were often alone on the trail - a welcome change. Part of the trail went right up the side of a rock face on a set of
Finally reaching Col de Balme felt like arriving at a sanctuary. The refuge was run by a man affectionately known as “Papa Switzerland”—friendly and engaging, he’s lived up there for years and skis the area all winter. Refuge Col de Balme quickly became one of our favorite stops, with its rustic charm: cozy bunk rooms, a roaring fire in the simple dining room, and a snug, welcoming atmosphere. We settled in, exhausted but content, happy to end the day in this uniquely memorable spot on the trail.
Here’s an expanded version of Day 10, integrating details about the climb from Col des Montets to Lac Blanc:
Day 10: Col de Balme to Refuge du Lac Blanc
After a hearty breakfast and coffee, we began our descent through Chamonix’s ski infrastructure, winding our way down toward Col des Montets. Once we crossed the road, we entered the rugged Aiguilles Rouges reserve. The steep and rocky path immediately introduced us to a more remote feel, as if we were leaving the familiar paths behind.
The trail here demands a solid effort, with switchbacks and increasingly rocky terrain leading us upwards. But the views make it all worthwhile—each turn offers a fresh vantage of the Mont Blanc massif towering in the distance. Partway through, a golden eagle soared above, a moment of awe that gave us a quick break from the climb.
The famous ladders were a memorable part of the ascent, a network of steep, vertical climbs attached to rock faces, allowing us to gain elevation quickly. They were exhilarating—only mildly nerve-wracking—but extremely fun. Taking on these ladders added a hands-on intensity to the day, and reaching the top gave a real sense of accomplishment. The end of the hike was along an escarpment with amazing view of the Chamonix valley and the MB massif with views up each of the glacial valleys in turn.
Arriving at Lac Blanc felt like finding an oasis. We secured spots in the cozy bunkroom, snagging a quiet corner with carved wooden bunks. Our early arrival meant we could pick our beds and settle in. We grabbed beers and snacks, enjoying them out on the terrace overlooking Lac Blanc and the spectacular glacier views.
In the afternoon, we ventured up to the smaller alpine lakes above Lac Blanc, where we were thrilled to see a family of agile bouquetin (ibex), including several curious little ones. They moved with such agility across snowfields and rocky outcrops, and being so close to them was a highlight of the day.
As sunset approached, we captured photos with the Mont Blanc massif bathed in golden light behind us, making for some of the best views of the entire trip. Dinner in the cozy dining room was warm and comforting, with hearty fare and a roaring fire in the background—a perfect end to a challenging but unforgettable day.
Day 11: Lac Blanc to Les Houches / Chamonix
Our last day on the Tour du Mont Blanc began at Refuge Lac Blanc, where we enjoyed a quick breakfast as the sun rose over the massif, casting a warm glow along the peaks. We set out from Lac Blanc, descending through sections of rocky trail and passing through ski areas, which were still quiet in the summer season.
As we continued, we arrived at the top of a tram line from the Chamonix Valley below, blessed with a perfectly sunny day that offered clear views in all directions. We stopped here to take in the scene, enjoying a well-earned lunch and coffee at the top of the ski lift.
The descent toward Les Houches was long but satisfying, leading us through alpine paths that gradually gave way to forested trails. Finally, we arrived at the Tour du Mont Blanc starting sign in Les Houches, marking the official end of our journey. A kind passerby offered to take our picture, just before the rain started.
After snapping that final photo, we caught a bus back to Chamonix and checked into the Hotel Heliopic. There, showers and a free minibar awaited, along with a well-deserved soak in the hotel’s baths.
That evening, we wandered through Chamonix, stopping at a unique hot dog place (located here) that we had heard about. We celebrated with wine and snacks, reminiscing over the adventure and unexpectedly running into more hikers we had met along the way.
Day 12: Chamonix to Portland
After an early morning wake-up at the Hotel Heliopic, we gathered our bags and joined a small group shuttle for the drive back to Geneva Airport. The ride was quiet, with everyone in the group reflecting on their own adventures in the mountains.
At Geneva, check-in was smooth, and we caught an easy flight to Heathrow for a quick connection home. Watching the Alps fade into the distance as the plane ascended, we couldn't help but feel a sense of accomplishment and satisfaction from the journey. It had been a great trip—unforgettable trails, breathtaking views, and moments that would stick with us for a long time.
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